Sept.: IgnitePDX, USA

September 24, 2010

A copy of the slides is available here. (.pdf)

In this talk I will present three hypothetical recipes that use actual biotechnologies that were created in the lab or have been field tested.

These recipes and the stories behind their ingredients will make the technology of Genetic Engineering much saner or much scarier depending on your point of view.

At the end I will make the case for the Genomic Gastronomer, a DIY BioHacker with an interest in food.

August: Food Scene, USA

August 17, 2010

On August, 10th Zack from the Center for Genomic Gastronomy appeared with artist Cat Kramer on the Radio Heritage Network‘s radio show and podcast “The Food Scene”. Listen here.

“This week on The Food Seen Michael sat down with Catherine Kramer & Zack Denfeld to talk about biohacking, Monsanto and GMOs, using glow-in-the-dark fish to make sushi, plus Zack’s experiences in India and Cat’s social experiment distributing free food. Tune in for an extremely insightful look at the way we currently source food and the way we may some day source it, sci-fi style. This episode was sponsored by Hearst Ranch: grass-fed beef from California.”

Thanks to host Michael Harlan Turkell for putting together such an interesting podcast, and Roberta’s Pizza in Brooklyn for hosting, hooking it up and generally being awesome.

July: Next HOPE, USA

July 21, 2010

On July 18th the Center gave a talk titled “Eating GMOs: Glowing Sushi, Fish Tomatoes and Impossible Recipes” at the Next HOPE (Hackers on Planet Earth) conference at the Hotel Pennsylvania in New York. The theme for this year’s conference was “Visions of the Future from the Past.”

Although the Center didn’t get it’s act together to give a formal speech at the conference, there was room in the 4th track for day-of lectures. (It’s great that HOPE allows for such last minute additions.)

The audience had some great questions about emerging agricultural bio technologies. It was exciting to be able to talk to an audience of hackers, because we at the Center see a ton of parallels between the early years of phreaking and hacking, and what is currently happening in the world of biotechnology and biohacking.

One audience member had a really nice suggestion that people should get together to create an Electronic Frontier Foundation (EFF) for BioHackers. Maybe it could be called The Genomic Frontier Foundation (GFF): Defending Freedom in the BioTech Century. However, the space of biohacking is so murky at this moment it is unclear what exactly it would be defending. I think we can safely say that a GFF would work towards removing unnecessarily restrictive IP regimes which prevent legitimate researchers and hobbyists from building on previous work.

So far the BioTech Industry has attempted to create strategies for genetic copy protection such only hacking hybrid plants, terminator gene style technologies and terms of service outlawing breeding each paralleling the way the Entertainment industry has tried to control its content. Perhaps young BioHackers could draw on the ideas and strategies of computer hackers in making inquiry and information sharing as open and free as possible.

In order to make the topic of Genomic Gastronomy relevant to the hacker community the talk tried to make case that studying and understanding the historical and technical precedents of agriculture and genetic engineering will make us more informed and sophisticated community of biohackers.

For example, hackers and phreakers who understand the technical specs and historical precedents that have defined the way that information flows through a system can explore and interact with more parts of a system and probe for exploits. Databases like the Information Systems for Biotechnology are a treasure trove for BioHackers who seek to understand how and why industry and government have focused on certain genomes or technologies at the expense of others, and how these initial conditions have defined boundaries of exploration that can be overcome with curiosity and ingenuity.

Here was the original hypothesis of why hackers might care about GMOs going into the talk

– Biotech is the Future
– There is no Honeymoon
– The BioTech industry is already consolidated and information and access are difficult to come by
– There is a rich but invisible history of technical and cultural detail for biohackers to mine

After spending the last few days reflecting on discussions with audinece member and reading entries from Dear Hacker, the above statements could be revised.

Biotech is the Future That is actually a technoutopic industry-hype statement. (Humans have been co-authoring the BioTech future since at least the advent of agriculture). One of the points that the Center has continuously made is that Permaculture and Organic farming are also forms of BioTechnology. Don’t believe the hype of a BioTech Panacea, just make informed decisions about how to deploy and hack the range of biotechnological systems available to improve the conditions on planet earth for human and non-humans.

There is no Honeymoon. The Center had assumed that there was some sort of honeymoon period for phone and computer hobbyists where everything was open and free before it was commercialized. And while the world wide web of 1998 is a very different place than the web of 2008, Dear Hacker and 2600 are both reminders that the free spaces were only carved out by curiousity and vigilence. There was no “honeymoon” for computer hackers, and there certainly doesn’t seem to be one for BioHackers.
The BioTech industry is already consolidated and information and access are difficult to come by. This still seems true, but there are lot’s of great organizations such as DIYBio, iGEM, OpenPCR, Hackteria, Center for Post Natural History etc. trying to reverse this trend.
There is a rich but invisible history of technical and cultural detail for biohackers to mine. Yes, but we need to find better resources and organize and visualize them in ways that make them useful to a larger number of curious BioHackers.

There may be a video of the talk floating around somewhere which we will post as soon as we are able to locate a copy. There were two other excellent food related talks at the conference. Gweeds from Food Hacking introduced his new project Food Genome, and served up some Sausage + Star Anise Fruit RollUps to the Audience while talking about Black Hat Food Hacking. Jeff Potter who wrote Cooking For Geeks spoke about hardware hacking Sous Vide cooking, important temperatures and other food chemistry. Inspirational both!

Provenance of Transgenic Ingredients

July 15, 2010

The Center recently shared the stage at the National Center for Biological Sciences in Bangalore with Daisy Ginsberg and James King. They were in India helping mentor a group of artschool biohackers.

We started talking to Daisy about her Synthetic Kingdom project. How would some of the ingredients we were studying at the Center be represented in her new proposed taxonomy?

The Genomic Gastronomer is not only interested in the physical and chemical properties of an organism, but also a food stuff’s provenance. What are the cultural selection mechanisms and biotechnological affordances and biases that led to an organism’s current state and usage as a food? One way of starting to map the provenance of transgenic organisms is connecting the mother organism and the genes that are transferred horizontally into them.

Here is our first attempt at such a map. It includes recent ingredients including BT Brinjal, the Fish Tomato and GloFish.

Creating taxonomic and visualization standards would be particularly helpful in the ongoing research of the Center. One problem we have run into on Wikipedia is finding appropriate naming conventions for organisms such as the “Fish Tomato” which existed in a lab and in the cultural memory, but does not have a scientific or even commercial designation. At least a map of the phylum’s that are being connected is a useful start for tracing the provenance of the organism. On the other hand, the potential to hyperlink between articles HAS made it easy to reference The Winter Flounder in relation to the Fish Tomato.

The Center looks forward to helping designers and scientists create spaces on the tree of life for the ingredients that we study and consume!

June: CKS, India

June 12, 2010

On June 11th – The Center for Genomic Gastronomy will be speaking at CKS in Bangalore, India.

Food System Design: Innovation & Conservation

Zack Denfeld from the Center for Genomic Gastronomy will present a few projects that address the challenges facing the intentional design of food systems, making the case that eaters, cooks and taste matter. Glow-In-The-Dark-Sushi, Dairy Farmer Hackers, Brinjal BioDiversity and the Graveyard of Transgenic FoodStuffs will all be covered. The event will last 90 Minutes inclusive of Q&A.

Will Eating Vegetarian Bouillabaisse Make Me Sick?

June 8, 2010

In a previous post (Making Vegetarian Bouillabaisse: What Happens to GMOs If They Fail?), we discovered that the often misrepresented transgenic organism the “Fish/Tomato” did exist and was tested in greenhouse conditions. However, very little information about the different tests that were run using copies of the genome are publicly available.

As biohacking (synthbio, artificial life, and good old transgenics) becomes increasingly cheap and accessible outside of expert lab settings, we will want to have a good understanding of how novel genomes with inserted transgenes will affect human and non-human actors.

In order to discover what kind of existing knowledge and access an organization like the Center will have in intelligently exploring such scenarios, I attempted to ask a seemingly “stupid” question.

Q: Would eating the Fish Tomato make me sick if I have a seafood allergy?

I wrote:

“A: Probably not, but it is not clear that there has been any testing in this area. This particular product never reached the stage of commercialization and I can find no record of it being tested on human or non-human subjects….According to the Food Allergy Initiative “the protein in the flesh of fish most commonly causes the allergic reaction; however, it is also possible to have a reaction to fish gelatin, made from the skin and bones of fish.”

as an initial response in the previous post but sought out more expert opinion.

In attempting to get an answer I came into contact with three allergy experts, who were each generous with their time and wrote me back. I am grateful because I worry about the current lack of expert advice for the exploding biohacking movement both within and outside the walls of academia.

One expert agreed that it is unlikely that the “antifreeze” gene transferred from flounder would cause an allergic reaction if someone ate this tomato since it is typically the muscle proteins of fish that cause the allergic reaction. Another expert seemed nonplussed about the question, but kindly responded. None of the experts I was in contact with knew of any published study of the potential allergenicity of the gene in question.

However, going forward with the historical reenactment of science that is the Vegetarian Bouillabaisse project, I want to be sure to ask some of the “stupid” questions that may or may not have been asked in the first go around of the Fish/Tomato.

Transgenic Papaya & Taking Into Account

June 3, 2010

(This post began as comment on this article from the Scientist Gardener blog, and then got really long, so I thought I would publish it here as well).

Your post on Dennis Gonsalves’ work and Transgenic Papaya (USDA approval application (.pdf)) is a great introduction to the much more nuanced and complex landscape of opinions regarding the implementation of transgenic agriculture today, as opposed to 10 years ago. It’s a shame you rely on the “Anti-GM activists” as a boogey man. As far as I can tell here in India, the range of stakeholders and the nuance of their positions is not so easy to generalize. I am happy to see you taking into account flavor as one indicator of food system health / resilience as well.

I have met increasing numbers of stakeholders, scientists and “activists” in my recent research on Genomic Gastronomy who very much understand the science of transgenic biotechnology, but have well reasoned and legitimate critiques based on the political, ecological and economic implications of SPECIFIC transgenic varieties being released in SPECIFIC bioregions and cultures. In some cases the introduction of a transgenic variety may ameliorate a problem, but in other cases an alternative biotechnology (permaculture, decentralizing farming practices, species substitution) may be a preferred or more efficacious option.

Many are skeptical of ANY major food system change (whether Transgenic, Organic, Urban or Export Oriented) that attempts all-at-once, top down changes that don’t take into account the locally existing production, distribution, or consumption practices. (A probably too often cited example: the failure of implementing high-yield varieties of rice in a top-down manner in Bali ) What I like about your post is that you show how the creation and implementation transgenic Papaya at least attempts to take into more considerations than profit / yield maximization, such as the cultural habits of farmers and eaters, particular challenges to a geographically limited space. Working on an island sort of forces one to do just that. But assuming, that this biotech fix will be the right choice everywhere might be jumping the gun.

Other than Papaya, I am wondering if any other field tested or commercialized transgenic varieties in the U.S. pay such close attention to how the transgenic fits into and affects a pre-existing food system?

I am wondering if you see Mahyco‘s/Monsanto‘s attempted introduction of 6 transgenic varieties of Eggplant (BT Brinjal) in India this year, as a reflection or shadow to Dennis’ practices. Here are a few of the things I understand about both processes and where they differ. (Please let me know if there are errors).


Dennis’ work focused on a specific and devastating virus: the Papaya Ringspot Virus. Whatever we may think about the production of Papaya in Hawaii for export to the United States and Japan (a seemingly unsustainable practice that probably won’t survive the emerging changes in energy economies and material flows) one has to acknowledge that there are farmers with livelihood that were directly and immediately effected negatively by creeping papaya ringspot potyvirus (PRSV).

It might be possible to co-design a sustainable/resilient food system, slowly, working with farmers to transition Papaya farms towards a collection of other plants that provide Vitamin A & C, and can be consumed locally instead of shipped around the world, and allows them to remain profitable. But that is a slower implementation of a “Social Technology”. Biotechnological often seem easier, and the implied changes in human lifeways and habits are not as explicit as in social or soft technologies.

Implementing transgenic Papaya to ward off PRSV is AN option, but may not address any of the root or long term challenges to farming and food security on Hawaii, but it has the advantage of addressing a specific local problem and addressing the problem with the use of already highly specialized species and variety of crop. Papaya could be swapped out with the other transgenic or non transgenic species in the future without disrupting global food security. (Unlike, say, rice, corn, wheat or soy). Although this would require an accompany change in gastronomic practices, especially in places like Japan and Thailand.


In contrast, Mohayco/Monsanto’s strain of transgenic Eggplant (BT Brinjal) does not focus on a specific geographic or agrinomic threat. The the transgenic cry gene makes the brinjal plant toxic to lepidopteron insects that attempt to ingest the plant.
The lepidopteron is one of the most speciose orders in the world that includes moths and butterflies and agricultural pests such as Shoot Borer (Leucinodes orbonalis) and Fruit Borer (Helicoverpa armigera). When the Bt toxin is ingested by the insect it binds to receptors in the insects midgut and then forms pores, ultimately killing the insect. In addition to the massive order effected by BT (both as a transgene and naturally occurring), India has bred and grows 100s of varieties of Brinjal that each have different agronomic and gastronomic properties.

Transgenic varieties of plants with theBacillus thuringiensis (BT) transgene are often marketed basically as a pesticide substitute, because effects whatever Lepidoptera insects attempt to eat the plant.

One set of reasoned critiques around the wide-scale implementation of the BT transgene generally, and the BT Brinjal plant in particular have to do with issues of scale including:

– it is not guaranteed that farmers will reduce pesticide use if the seed is sold nationally without oversight (lack of user-training)

– the efficacy of naturally occurring BT is lowered, as some pests evolve resistance to the toxin (tragedy of the commons of ecosystem services, economic externalities)

– the commercialization of BT Brinjal would severely reduce the agricultural BioDiversity (agronomic)

– it directly affects a massive ORDER of species (as opposed to transgenic Papaya which is intended to effect one virus in a GENUS). One design critique I would make is that the transgenic intervention using BT is much too wide. By not attacking a specific and eminent existential threat, a BT variety has a new relationship with many many other organisms in the agricultural ecosystem. Measuring the intended (and possibly, unintended) consequences of the Papaya means starting at the level of genus.

– India is home to ~ 1/6th of all the humans that live on the planet. The decision to approve transgenic plants is taken by the GEAC the level of the central national government, although some states have attempted to opt out, but keep in mind that many states of India have more citizens than most European countries! This decision is highly centralized and effects the food security (whether for good or bad) and is quite different in scale than approving a transgenic fruit on a small island. Caution should be prioritized in such a decision.

I don’t necessarily think each critique is equally valid: I would like to see independent ethnographic and field test data where available / appropriate.

However, they point to the fact that unlike transgenic Papaya which solves a specific and existential threat to a SPECIFIC agricultural variety (Hawiian solo type) the application of BT Brinjal is an probably too large and totalizing a solution for an always-existing agronomic problem (general pest control) for a massive and massively diverse food system. I can’t blame GE skeptics for being more skeptical of the technology and Monsanto as its corporate poster child than before.

I should note that the Indian government has its own research initiatives for creating transgenic varieties, which would presumably be distributed under a much more palatable intellectual property and pricing regime if they were ever approved. I will be posting more about that as soon as I track down some specifics.

I don’t know much about Hawaii’s Papaya industry, but if it “consists of indigenous and immigrant family farms, hand-tended on small plots of land” and remains that way, that seems politically and ecologically (although not necessarily economically) acceptable. That is in contrast to the consolidation and move towards monocultures that accompanies the the commercialization of transgenic strains.

Final thought: Most approved transgenic strains have been grains, Papaya is the exception, and so it may be that as profit-independent University and Government labs create non-grain GE varieties that don’t adversely effect ecosystem services and agricultural biodiversity, or further consolidate farming practices and intellectual property, there will be an increase in popular support for commercializing SOME GE varieties if it is seen to be the most efficacious solution for specific problems.

A recent quote from Science sums it up nicely for me:

“Our view is that genetic modification is a potentially valuable technology whose advantages and disadvantages need to be considered rigorously on an evidential, inclusive, case-by-case basis: Genetic modification should neither be privileged nor automatically dismissed.

We also accept the need for technology to gain greater public acceptance and trust before it can be considered as one among a set of technologies that may contribute to improved global food security.”
– H. Charles Gadfray et al. “Food Security: The Challenge of Feeding 9 Billion People”


October 24 - November 21, 2019
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