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Taste Matters. Even in Science

July 30, 2012

During our research with DA4GA we met, collaborated with and debated a number of researchers, (in addition to our wonderful hosts and collaborators at NCHA). One of the best parts of working on the DA4GA in the Netherlands was the proximity of so many cities and centers of research. We inevitably crossed paths with researchers that share similar interests but have very different disciplinary lenses and approaches.

We thought it would be useful to list some of the people we interacted with in the Netherlands, and hint at how these interactions have shaped our thoughts.

 

Michael Korthals

Prof. dr. M. Korthals, (Professor Applied Philosophy, Chair Social Science, Ethics Committee, Social Sciences, Wageningen University) attended one of our presentations and emailed us a paper “Coevolution of Nutrigenomics and Society: Ethical Considerations”. The paper is a useful critique of the dominant view of nutrigenomics, which tends to emphasize the health of the individual (as opposed to collective or environmental health), and views food as a preventive means for personalized health, for the prevention of calculable risks, and a personal responsibility.

Prof. Korthals seems to share our own interest in creating alternative frameworks for food, health & genomics research. These alternative frameworks might take into account collective and environmental health concerns, as well as societal, cultural and political approaches to food system change: instead of privileging technical approaches. We are hoping to learn more about Prof. Korthals’ research and were happy to hear that our artwork prompted him to reach out to us.

 

Mark Post 

While in the Netherlands the Center for Genomic Gastronomy took part in a live cooking event, called ArtMeatFlesh hosted by Oron Catts. We were matched up with Mark Post; one of the leading In Vitro Meat researchers in the world. It was a very curious but fruitful interaction for us. On the one hand our research and instincts, lead us to be very skeptical about the emphasis on techno-scientific solutions to food problems. Food problems require social, cultural and political nuance and rigor not always central to scientific/engineering inquiry.

Although the Center remains deeply skeptical about the way In Vitro Meat is being marketed as a solution to hunger and sustainable food systems,it was a treat to work with Prof. Post. He was amazingly open minded, generous and a great cook to boot.

Based on our conversations, Prof. Post seemed committed to promoting reduced meat consumption. He believes less meat consumption will in general lead to more sustainable food systems. However, knowing that not everyone will give up meat consumption entirely, he views In Vitro meat production as preferable to traditional meat consumption.

We thought it might be interesting to create a series of “What-If” dishes that used humor to highlight the dreams, hype and possible unintended consequences of In Vitro meat production.

(For example, industrially produced bacon fat high in Fatty 3 Omega acids, might taste like fish, or In Vitro meat might be used to create exceedingly decadent / disgusting creations such as “Surf & Turf” slurry, a lobster & steak bath of gelatinous muscle cells. We also revisited failed food utopias to acknowledge the long and checkered history of instrumentalizing food production.)

Here is a list of the dishes Mark Post & The Center for Genomic Gastronomy created:

As our collaboration with Mark hopefully showed: In Vitro Meat is perhaps most useful as a method of culinary and ethical inquiry that force eaters to engage directly with the unusual implications of semi-living steaks and the increasingly abstracted relations most humans have to the non-human animals they consume. For more on In Vitro Meat we highly recommend the Tissue Culture and Art’s Victimless Steak project.

Bert Lotz

The Center had the opportunity to give a co-lecture with Prof. Bert Lotz in Rob Zwijnenberg‘s class at Leiden University. Prof. Zwijnenberg teaches a class called “VivioArts: Art and Biology Studio” and the theme for this semester was “Who Owns Life?” The students in this class had spent the previous part of the semester working with the artist Boo Chapple in the lab.

Prof. Lotz and I arrived to the class not knowing exactly what to expect. Lotz gave a concise talk to the students about his work with Transgenic and “Cisgenic” research. (Ironically, it turns out that Prof. Lotz and the Center for Genomic Gastronomy may have shown together before. The Center presented the Cisgenesis artist book at in 2010, and it sounds like Prof. Lotz may have also presented at the show as well, but we never met in person).

The students had a number of questions for Prof. Lotz. In particular, they seemed to be very attuned to the unintended consequences and downstream implications of his research. For example, they wondered why he was researching trasngenic corn, and whether that might have downstream consequences on land use ( clearing the rainforest for animal feed / fungible export crops ), energy supplies (biofuels) and processed food (corn syrup) et al. I shared many of the same questions. Prof. Lotz seemed very sincere in his desire that scientists interact with “society” but maintained a privileged position of knowledge, and seemed deeply skeptical of the value of arational approaches to decision making. (For example, I got the sense from his response to the students that preference, taste, tradition and subjectivity were not appropriate methods for making decisions about which crops, genomes or agricultural methods should be employed. That is a shame because behavioral economics and other social science fields increasingly inform us that complex systems and wicked problems require arational heuristics in order to be ameliorated).

One of the advantages of directing our attention on “gastronomy” rather than “agronomy” or “agriculture” is the requirement of including the subjective when dealing with difficult topics. With the lens of Gastronomy is food as culture, not only food as fuel or food as product.

This may be the biggest learning for us over the last few months, and a rich insight provided by lecturing with Prof. Lotz: The research conducted by the Center for Genomic Gastronomy is always at least partly subjective, and includes many ways of knowing that are excluded by normative scientific practice. Talking to researchers with the lens of gastronomy changes the landscape of the conversation.

Taste matters. Even in science.

Spice Mix Super-Computer

July 23, 2012

Coming soon….

PHOTO CREDIT: all images (cc) by-sa: ToporyHigh ContrastChristian Köhler & NASA

The Center in WIRED (UK)

July 12, 2012

The Center for Genomic Gastronomy is featured in the July 2012 issue of WIRED (UK).

DA4GA Trailer: BetaTasting Dinner

June 26, 2012

This was a dinner where we presented sketches and (edible) work in progress to friends in late April.

Trailers van de DA4GA projecten 2011/2012. In opdracht van CSG Centre for Society and the Life Sciences gemaakt door Bromet & Dochters.

The beta taster menu:

Sneak Preview: New CentGG show up this week

June 3, 2012

Our new cookbook is hot-off-the-presses.

Get your very own: info [at] genomicgastronomy [dot] com

The Sign says it all.

Realism and Expressionism in Speculative Food Design

May 25, 2012


ABSTRACT
Realism and Expressionism in Speculative Food Design

Speculative Food Design uses the tools of design to imagine and prototype alternative cuisines, future food systems and experimental ways of eating. In this paper we will show how Speculative Food Design can be used to inspire new products and services, critique existing food design practices or as a method for conducting ethnographies of eater experience. We will examine and compare two modes: Speculative Expressionist Food Design and Speculative Materialist Food Design, and provide examples of each mode from our own creative practice. We will present two projects where ethical considerations caused us to work between the two modes, depending on who was eating the food. Finally, we will propose ways that other practitioners can apply these processes in research, teaching or industry.

Speculative Expressionist Food Design shares many qualities with critical design, design for debate and speculative architecture. By creating images, artifacts and experiences that present a viable simulation of a possible reality, audience members can think through the implications of what would happen if this fiction was real. This process is expressionistic because the images, artifacts and experiences are at the end of the day only mock-ups and props and no food is actually eaten. Audience members or research subjects may be viewers, or become performers, actively engaging with the food design scenario or installation. However they are not given access or allowed to eat the biological material because the food that is created is unsafe, inedible or simply doesn’t exist in biological / material form and can only be simulated.

On the other hand, Speculative Materialist Food Design differs in that the prototype takes the form of food that can actually be eaten by the audience. By seeking out novel ingredients / biotechnologies / cooking processes and serving them to an audience, Speculative Materialist Food Design implicates the eater directly in the imagined alternative food culture. These experiences remain experiments and are not necessarily repeated, or may not scale well for commercial or even artistic purposes, but can open up new pathways for receiving direct feedback from eaters. The emphasis of Speculative Materialist Food Design is creating simulated realities that provide access to actual genomes, biotechnologies or cooking processes, allowing audience members to interact with the material in the process of consuming it.

Both processes are valuable tools for thinking through possible alternative courses and futures for food design, but each have limitations as well. We will provide templates for carrying out this kind of work in different settings, and discuss the artistic and ethical considerations when doing so.

ArtMeatFlesh Menu

May 22, 2012


On Saturday evening Zack from the Center performed in a hybrid lecture/cook off. This was the menu he helped prepare.

DA4GA Update: Cook Book

May 14, 2012


Cat and I have spent the last week putting the finishing touches on the cookbook that we are publishing as part of our DA4GA project called “Eat Less, Live More and Pray for Beans.” The file is in the hands of the printer (Ditto Press in London). We were excited to take advantage of Ditto Press’ 2-color risograph printer. What follows is a sneak preview of a few sections of the publication. In all of the images below, the orange is actually a neon ink and will show up very differently on the book than on these design proofs.

Our thinking and writing during this project was highly influenced by the book Meals to Come by Warren Belasco. Here is one infographic from our cookbook that draws on his analysis of 200 years of Anglo-American food futurism.

Early on in our research we spent of time looking for interesting stories from the many data sets about global and Dutch food. Here are some infographics of trends and changes that caught our eye.

(click for a larger version or download the .pdf)

On the right-hand side is a short essay from the book called “Calling All Beta-Tasters and Gastronauts: This is Your Opportunity to Dive Into the Future Mouth-First.” To develop the recipes we worked with repeat collaborates Heather K. Julius and Scott Heimendinger. Both culinary creatives responded with some amazing recipes which we reveal on June 7th.

When we spoke to Tiny van Boekel at Wageningen University we were quite amazed to hear about “MeatLess” a lupine-flour based product that can be used to make meat that is 80% meat and 20% non-meat. This conversation inspired our “Meat Map” so we could figure out where to put semi-meats on the spectrum.

((click for a larger version or download the .pdf)

And finally, in the process of writing this cook book, we came to realize that we are always on the look out for unexpected ingredients. Now we have one more to add to the list: Maisantozwammen a mushroom grown on transgenic corn.


We hope you are able to visit the exhibit at Naturalis in the latter half of 2012. If you want a copy of the cookbook you can visit the Naturalis museum in Leiden, the Netherlands, where it will be on sale in the bookstore starting June 7th. It will also be available on their online bookstore (http://www.natuurenboek.nl/) starting June 7th. (They ship internationally.) Or you can email us directly at info at genomicgastronomy dot com

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CURRENT & UPCOMING

November 18, 2021 - December 12, 2021
Grafill, risography exhibition, Oslo, NO
October 24 - November 21, 2019
ClimATE, Aalto University, Espoo, FI.
March 1, 2018
Climate Fiction PT
October 21 - 29, 2017
Dutch Design Week: Embassy of Food
October 19 - 21, 2017
Experiencing Food (Lisbon)
Nov. 5 - Apr. 2, 2016
2116: Forecast of the Next Century
Nov. 5th, 2016
KiKK Festival Workshop