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WORK > 2023 > Terroir That Travels

TERROIR THAT TRAVELS (TTT) uses maps and stories to ask how agricultural products and taste of place will migrate due to climate change. 


People, plants and entire agricultural landscapes are on the move. As the climate changes, how will farmers, cooks and food cultures in Europe adapt to migrating landscapes? 

This project uses bespoke mapping tools, local agricultural knowledge, and climate predictions for pre-enacting disrupted tastes of place and asking “What does local food taste like when climate changes everything?”, “Who and what belongs where?” and “what will thrive and what will be left behind?”. 

As the planet warms over the next century, populations of plants, people and other organisms will either acclimate and adapt to their new conditions, or migrate towards more hospitable geographies. These questions are particularly relevant in the E.U. because taste-of-place and regional foods are legally protected under the Protected Geographic Indicator (P.G.I.) scheme—and climate change is already undermining the ability to sustain these agricultural landscapes and foodways. 

TERROIR THAT TRAVELS asks how we can make room for the plants and people that will migrate to and within Europe due to climate change.

Project Elements

A. STEREOSCOPIC STORIES

Through stakeholder interviews, site visits,
and climate change predictions, Genomic Gastronomy imagined how three specific food products (a french garlic, a portuguese cow, and a dutch grape) might adapt, migrate or disappear due to changing climatic and agricultural conditions.

This research was synthesized into an interactive artwork that takes visitors to rural sites of production from yesterday, today, and tomorrow with a local guide. 

The installation consists of three stereoscopic travel diaries and the set of bespoke maps.

B. MAPS

Genomic Gastronomy partnered with the map-makers Nataly Khadziakova Studio to visualize how foods protected under the E.U.’s Geographical Indication (GI) scheme might migrate due to climate change. Together, we created two maps:

The 2024 MAP was created using AI to extract the geographic data from the EU’s eAmbrosia database, which catalogs all the registered GI products. Using this geographic dataset, we created a map of existing products which can be compared or overlaid with climate predictions.

The 2080 MAP shows a prediction of where three existing GI products could migrate, based on geographies that might have the necessary conditions for the product to survive.

C. THE INTERACTION

There is a host at the suitcase display inviting visitors to participate. This is a two person interaction. Either between two visitors, or between the host and a visitor. One person reads the story from the booklet, while the other person follows the story with the images in the viewfinder. Each story takes about three minutes to read.

There are currently three stories the visitors can choose from. One is about a garlic, one is about a cow and one is about a grape.

Credits

This project was supported by The European Cultural Foundation’s program: Culture of Solidarity Fund – Just Transition. Map-making by Nataly Khadziakova Studio with Eugene Kalinouski.

An early prototype of this project was supported by the Waag Space Lab and was exhibited at Ars Electornica in 2023, with mentorship was provided by Space4Good.